Conference article

Characteristics of Pattern Making Work of Modelistes in France in Comparison with Pattern Makers in Japan

Emi Nakanishi
Graduate School of Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Japan / ENSAIT-Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, France

Kyoung Ok Kim
Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Research (ICCER), Shinshu University, Japan

Tsuyoshi Otani
Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Japan

Masayuki Takatera
Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Research (ICCER), Shinshu University, Japan

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Published in: KEER2018, Go Green with Emotion. 7th International Conference on Kansei Engineering & Emotion Research 2018, 19-22 March 2018, Kuching, Malaysia

Linköping Electronic Conference Proceedings 146:15, p. 144-150

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Published: 2018-03-13

ISBN: 978-91-7685-314-6

ISSN: 1650-3686 (print), 1650-3740 (online)

Abstract

In French, modéliste describes a person who makes a toile for a fashion design produced by a designer at an haute couture or a prêt-à-porter house. A Japanese patternmaker, who is called a patterner in Japan, uses a basic pattern to make a new pattern based on a drawing by a fashion designer. The new pattern is made by adjusting the lines of the basic pattern to the desired shape. To understand the differences between French and Japanese clothing designs, we asked three French modélistes and four Japanese patterners to make a jacket pattern from the same design. Their background and working processes were compared and their thinking on stylisme, consciousness of work, and patternmaking process were investigated. As a result, Japanese patterners used flat patternmaking method whereas French modélistes draped a body with fabric. In the compatibility of the designs with different body shapes, the acceptable ranges of the French modélistes’ patterns were wider than those of the Japanese patterners.

Keywords

Modéliste, French, patternmaker, patterner

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